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Egyptian Walking Onions

How to Grow Egyptian Walking Onions

"Egyptian Walking Onion"

Egyptian Walking Onion

Full Sun
Plant in well-drained, moist soil.
Planting Depth:
1 or 2 inches deep

I planted mine about 1 1/2 inches deep.

Walking Onions can be planted in clusters or rows. They even work well in pots.
Roughly 4 to 6 inches between each bulb whether planting in Rows or Clusters.
Rows: A foot apart.

“I planted mine in a circle cluster.”

When to Plant:
Walking Onions are best when planted in the fall; however they may be planted year round.

First year plants will not produce top sets of onions but once these onions are in their 2nd year and thereafter they will thrive with produce; they won’t let you down!

Harvest the onion greens throughout the season by snipping a couple from this and a couple from that.

Leave enough greens on each plant to allow the production of onion clusters. New greens will grow from the same plant.

When all the greens are harvested from one plant it is unlikely that you will have any clusters of onions on that plant that year. You can plan on them the following year instead.

Onion sets can be harvested from all stalks from about the middle of summer through late summer.

Unless natural re-planting is what you want your Walking Onions to do, quickly harvest onion bunches from fallen stalks that have turned brown before the onions re-plant themselves.

In-ground Walking Onion bulbs are generally harvested in late summer and early autumn.

If you desire harvesting larger in-ground Walking Onions it is best to snip away any clusters at their onset so as to confine the growing energy all into that one in-ground onion.

Planting Zones:
Walking Onions do best in Planting Zones 3-9

Find Your Plant Hardiness Zone:
U.S. Planting Zones
Worldwide Planting Zones

Other names:
Tree Onions, Perennial Onions, Egyptian Tree Onions, Walking Onions, Winter Onions, Egyptian Walking Onions, Top Onions

I like to grow this hardy, Perennial Onion with it’s distinct vigorous flavor and unique growth habit. The entire plant is edible.

Miniature bunches of onions grow on the top of the greens and I can see when they are ready to harvest.
“No guess work!

If I want larger onions I can snip the clusters before they form, thus nurturing & encouraging the in-ground onion to grow larger.

I use these miniature onions as I would use any other onion.

I appreciate the option of chopping or not. I simply peel and add whole tiny onions to a recipe.
Works great in a kitchen without space for lots of food prep.

On occasion I chop these tasty gems in halves or quarters when I think it’s potent flavor may be too overwhelming for a particular salad or dinner guest.

The hollow greens have spiced up my soups and salads making me appear to be the chef that I am not.

My stir-fries really appreciate them!

When I choose not to harvest they simply bend and reproduce even more! Even the in-ground bulb that the entire onion plant grows from can be harvested and eaten or left in the ground to grow even more.

Seeing it’s greens peep up through the snow in early spring is an inspiration after a long winter!

Urban Farming – Sustainable – Grow Walking Onions

Urban Farming? Do you grow Walking Onions?

How to Grow Red Raspberries

"Red Raspberry"

Red Raspberry - Latham

…urban style.

How to Grow Red Raspberries

Everbearing Red Raspberries, grow and produce fruit differently. Everbearing Raspberries grow crops on the tips of the canes during the autumn of their first year. During the second year, these same canes will grow another crop at the lower part of the same cane and during the summer.

Red Raspberries Canes
Summer berries. Bears fruit it’s 2nd year toward the bottom of the cane.
Fall berries. Bears fruit at the top of the cane

Blooms Mid-spring to late summer

When to Plant:
Early spring.

Find your planting zone:
United States


Raspberries love full sun.

Loam, sandy, organic rich.
Avoid soils that have housed eggplant, peppers, potatoes or tomatoes within a few years prior to a raspberry’s occupancy.

It’s nothing personal; they simply fear any leftover root rot causing fungus, ‘Verticillium’, that may be lingering in the soil.

Soil Prep & Maintenance:
Raspberries enjoy a soil with a pH of 5.6 upwards to 6.2. The raspberry farmer can test the fertility and pH levels of the soil with a pH test kit. Scientifically speaking: 2 lbs of each of the following per 1,000 square feet: potassium, nitrogen & phosphorus.
Adjusting pH levels in soils with more acidic character can be accomplished by adding ground limestone. Planting a couple of cover crops per season, tilling them into the soil before they go to seed will insure healthy soil and deter weeds.. Millet, rye, buckwheat or oats make good cover crops. Otherwise compost and manure can be continuously tilled into the soil all season.

Good irrigation equals good fruit size and good yield.
Raspberries don’t like sitting in soppiness for long periods of time.

How to Plant:
Plant as deep as it was in the growing pot and at least twice the size of the root ball. Allow roots to spread comfortably without cramming.

Healthy red raspberry plants require constant air circulation at the base to prevent any rot, fungus or disease. Pruning the raspberry plant back to grow within a 12″ to 18″ width, (smaller urban farmers may want to adjust accordingly), will insure adequate, disease preventing air flow and sunlight.

Japanese Beetle, Raspberry Fruitworm, Red-Necked Borer, Raspberry Cane Borer

Verticillium, Cane Blight, Cane Gall, Orange Rust, Mosaic Virus, Anthracnose, Spur Blight

Raspberries have a special place in my memories and my taste buds. The raspberries I knew throughout my childhood grew along the edge of the road, and well into the forests.

"Red Raspberry"

Red Raspberries

These tasty little fruits established themselves quite regularly on my what-to-do weekend list of adventures. It was always a challenge to pick a berry from the bush and put it into the pail. The detour to my taste buds was most often traveled.

Urban Farming – Sustainable – Grow Red Raspberries